Wade Shaddy
Wade Shaddy specializes in hardwood furniture, trim carpentry, cabinets, home improvement and architectural millwork. Shaddy has worked in home building since 1972. He has also worked as a writer, publishing in national publications since 1992, including two years as a contributing writer for "Bicycling Magazine," writing on fitness, training and bike maintenance. Shaddy published a novel, Dark Canyon, in 2008.
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By Wade Shaddy, eHow Contributor
Tongue and groove patterns typically have a series of vertical lines or beads that evoke a stately appearance -- a common design feature of 1950s cabinetry. If you've grown weary of the traditional appearance of your white pine, tongue and groove cabinets, options and updates are at your disposal. Wear breathing and eye protection when working with wood. Those already familiar with working with routers and other woodworking tools can easily complete this ideas.
Shaker Trim
Tongue and groove doors and jambs need reinforcement to keep individual planks in place. The reinforcement can be in the form of a Shaker-style cabinet face, which consists of a frame around the perimeter, or two horizontal planks on the back. If you have the planks on the back of the door, known as a slab door, an update to the Shaker style can change everything. Achieve a Shaker design by attaching 2 or 2 1/2 inch wide pine trim around the perimeter of doors and jambs and proportionally smaller frames on drawer fronts. Sometimes referred to as an inset-panel door, the Shaker frame adds depth to cabinet doors. Make the pine strips 3/4 inch thick for a drastic change or just 1/2 to 1/4 inch thick for a modest update.
Router Changes
If the Shaker design is too much, skip the trim and break up vertical lines with a routered groove applied to the cabinet door. Choose from almost any router bit profile, but the flute bit is the most common. Use a 1/4 inch bit to achieve a subtle change, or a 3/8 inch for wider effect. Set the router to cut approximately 1/4 inch deep to add a groove to doors that have no trim. The design is cut directly into the face of the door, around the perimeter about 2 inches in from the outside edge. The basic design is square and is accomplished by clamping plywood strips around the door to be used as guides for the router. Adjustable, aluminum router templates are available that allow you to add curves, squares or other designs at each corner, if desired.
Molding Matters
For a drastic change include bold, 1 1/4 inch half-round raised molding to tongue and groove doors and jambs. Some versions of raised molding have a 3/4 inch lip that fits on door edges to encase them around the perimeter, while other versions sit flat on the door or jamb. Apply the molding around the perimeter flush with the edge, or allow a 2 inch wide space between the molding and the edge of the door or jamb. For a more subtle approach, use 1/2-by-3/8 inch decorative molding. This type of molding, sometimes referred to as panel molding, has a flat back with a delicate, rounded profile.
Strip and Stain
Tongue and groove white pine often does not have a stained color. The 1950s versions include products, such as varnish and shellac that darken to a honey color with time. But you can change the character and overall look of white pine cabinetry by stripping them, applying a stain and finish coat. Stripping this type of cabinet can be intimidating, but if you use chemical strippers in a well-ventilated area with the right safety equipment, the job is efficient and much faster. After the cabinets are stripped down to bare wood, apply an oil-based stain to bring out the natural beauty of the white pine and cover with a finish to protect the cabinetry. Or you can take it to the next level by painting the cabinetry or adding colored lacquer.
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Tongue and Groove White Pine Kitchen Cabinet Ideas | eHow
Tongue and groove white pine often does not have a stained color. The 1950s versions include products, such as varnish and shellac that darken to a honey
Tongue & Groove White Pine Kitchen Cabinets Ideas | eHow UK
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