Hi photogirl,
The advise above is correct but as you are working with existing units it will be more difficult to adjust the carcases (cupboards). If you can remove the plinths/kickboards then you may be able to adjust the legs as required to help in aligning the carcases.
The doors are adjustable as follows;
1) Projection - when the doors are closed the faces of the doors should be level with onanother. If this is not the case and a corner appears to be proud, adjust as follows - open the door 90degrees to the cabinet and ckeck to see if the gap between the edge of the door and the edge of the cabinet is parallel. To adjust slacken the rear screw on the arm, move the door so the gap is parallel then re-tighten.
2) Vertical alignment - to adjust the doors so the vertical gap between the doors are parallel - there is one adjusting screw on the arm of each hinge, this is generally the screw nearest the door, rotate this screw clockwide and the door will move away from the side of the carcase at that hinge. Anticlockwise is the reverse of course.
3) Height - loosen the screws ( 2 per hinge) which hold the backplate to the cabinet, this will allow you to lift or lower the door to align with the drawer fronts or adjacent doors.
Start with the wall units and work from the middle of any long runs. This will give you a better chance of alignment. Once you think they are somewhere close, look along the top/bottom edge of the doors to check, if you see a strainght line you've cracked it.
Then move on to the base units and start with the drawer fronts as these sometimes have less adjustment than the doors. Drawers are usually adjustable by cam operated screws on the outside of the drawer sides where the sides join the back of the drawer front. If you don't have thses then you will need to remove and refit the drawer fronts.
All the above is best undertaken with a pozi screwdriver by hand.
Get in touch if you need any more info.
Regards
Holbex Design Ltd.
Travelling is my life
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