I'm letting you know that with the directions you provide, the replacement drawer & slide system installed perfectly. I'm sure I'll be ordering more as the unit has another 12 plastic drawers.
Thanks Dan
Having problems with the drawers in your kitchen cabinet or vanity? We have a slide system that will get those drawers working smoothly - better than new! Pictured below is the general layout you will use and the pieces of the slide system.
Ordering the slide system at same time as the drawer box, based on cabinet opening sizes, assures all will fit and work the best. The special machining of the draweer box is part of the slide system cost. Therefore, don't try to compare apples and oranges.
Once you figure it out, or after the first one, it should only take a few minutes each after that.
We have over 30 years experience as cabinet and furntiure makers and repairers. I just watched over 20 YouTube videos on how to install various kinds of drawer slides and how to even install a style very similar to the choice we recommend. None of the video explained how to deal with the counter top in place!
From our experience and search of all available options this slide system is our recommended choice for you! It is relatively easy to install. The only "complicating factor" is the locating of the rear clip to hold the pair of slides parallel and level. We lay out for you a "measurement approach" to located the clips up/down and left/right to make it work.
IF YOU FOLLOW THE SEQUENCE OF THESE PICTURES THEY ARE A "HOW TO' SET OF INSTRUCTIONS. Designed specifically for ease of installation as retrofit into pre-existing cabinets WITH THE COUNTER TOP IN PLACE.
Further down page are "How to Install Drawer Front on New Box"
SOME THOUGHTS BEFORE YOU START
Read through all the instructions first so you are acquainted with the tools needed and the various steps of installation. You will need a few small items which are not included in the the boxes you will receive such as wood strips for hanging the system in your pantry as well as screws for securing the system to your pantry.
Trays can be arranged / spaced within the pantry according to your own preference. For example, you might want to space one tray so there is sufficient clearance for taller items. Trays and slides can be easily rearranged and re-spaced by relocatting 4 screws. But with a bit of advanced planning no relocation will be needed.
In planning the pull out tray location, remember that the tray bottom is 1/4" and it has a 1/2" space below it for the slide system to the bottom of the pull out. So, a 4" high tray has 3 1/4" of inside usable depth.
| ORDERED WITH NEW DRAWER BOX | FREE SHIPPING Heavy Duty Slides | INCLUDED UPGRADES:... *** clips pre-installed *** precut notches on drawer....*** pair front attachment clips Everything included except a few screws |
ORDERED WITHOUT (use your existing drawer) | FREE SHIPPING Heavy Duty Slides | Includes one pair of drawer slides with loose front and rear clips Requires you make necessary cuts in drawer to modify |
 |  | Left: THE FINAL LOOK: The typical kitchen base cabinet and it's drawer (with the drawer face removed. See below how to transfer the existing from old to new drawer box.). Right: Showing typical over alll depth of 24" but 23" reach is required for the slide system and normally reached with a 1/4" cabinet back and 3/4" nailer board. IF you don't have a tall or wide enough nailer, you will have to install one. Think scrap piece of 1x4 or 1X6. | |
 |  | Left:The slide system adjustible lengh rear clip. Locating the rear clips are the important but clumsy part. We solve by a measurement approach to make it easy. The clips keep the pair of slides parallel and level. Right: Allows adjustment from 21 1/2" to 23". 23" reach is required for the slide system and normally reached with a 1/4" cabinet back and 3/4" nailer board. IF you don't have a tall enough nailer, you will have to install one. Think scrap piece of 1x4. Cut to length of space between cabinet partitionsd. | |
| Shows calculation of cabinet opening and top rail. The back clip is mounted so it's bottom is the same distance down from the top of the cabinet as top edge of bottom rail of face frame = drawer opening and top rail. That is simple enough! Do not get confused by a counter top that may have a recessed bottom. | ||
| "If" the cabinet nailer is not tall or wide enough, you may have to add horizontally a 1x4 or 1x6 from the lumber store. For a drawer stack or food pantry it can be run vertically. The 1x4 lumber piece can run across the back of several drawers as long as can get it inside the cabinet. We suggest doing for each drawer, even if side-by-side. With a little creative thinking and layout work, you can pre-attach the rear clips to the lumber piece before you install it in the rear of the cabinret. Attach the lumber piece with a few screws 1/2" to 1" longer than the thickness of your lumber. | ||
  | Now, the "complicated part!" Most cabinet face frames have a sideways return inside the cabinet to a vertical partition. It might be near to your drawer opening or over by the next one, but sure enough it exists. Measure that distance! Guess where you locate the outside edge of the first rear clip left/right? Use the same distance. Be careful.. The opposite side may havve a different face frame return. | ||
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#8 X 7/16 OR 1/2 Truss | SCREW #1 AND #2: Attach the clips to the section of pre cut lumber so that its outside edge is the proper distance from left and right. If the lumber section fits under your narrow cabinet's rear nailer. include the nailer's width in your calculation. SCREW # 3 Once the clips are pre located on the lumber, pre drill a screw hole in the lumber about on center. Put a screw in the hole. Now, reach up inside the cabinet and attach it to rear of cabinet with a singlre svcrew thru the cabinet back. That is strong enough. A 1 1/4" pan headed Phillips screw is ideal. | |
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 |  | by simply screwing the slide system to the cabinet front frame. Keep the slide back from front edge about 1/8" for overlay style doors, and 3/8"+ for lip style doors. Slide system mounted with drawer removed. | |
a blow up picture of rear of slide system adn the tongue clip. needs to be pic'd | The back of the drawer with its notch and hole engages the "tongue clip" at the rear of the slide system. Wiggle the drawer bgox into place and then it should snap down over the red box front mounted retainer clips. Do not jamb it down. Wiggle untl it engages. Make note that the red clip as a release lever to remoove the drawer should you ever need to. | ||
| SLIDE SYSTEM CARTONED AND SHIPPED SEPARATELY. | ||
 21" Long only for Standard kitchen cabinet reach of 23". 175# Rated Self Closing |  Grey plastic release clip for bottom-front. (now red to impress you, but improved!) |  Steel clip for rear |
 #8 X 7/16 OR 1/2 Truss | ||
JUST FOLLOW THE STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS SHOWN HERE.
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Old broken drawer box of wood or plastic. Drawer front broken off laying face down. The BACKER BOARD needs to be removed by unscrewing, breaking away from old glue and/or staples, or whatever required. Can be frustrating IF cabinet maker used too many staples and too much glue. IF they ever had to repair one, they would not over do it next time. If particle board that was glued and stapled you will cuss at it. Use an old chisel or larger flat tip screw driver and chip away. We also sell new drawer fronts. |   Using an existing cabinet and its drawers, determine the amount of overhang of the drawer front below the cabinet opening. Usually 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2". You'll need this measurement later. Call this Allowance "A". | You have already installed the new drawer box with the full extension slide system. It has a gap measurement of 9/16" between bottom of the box and the edge of the cabinet rail. To be clear that is 1/16" more than 1/2" Call this Allowance "B". |
Drill 2 or 4 holes thru the front of the drawer box. 2 for typical under cabinet drawers of 3-5". 4 for taller drawer boxes. The holes are for attachment from the inside of the box into the back of the drawer front. No particular magic as to where exactly you drill. |
Use some kind of clamp to hold drawer front to drawer box. This view is from above but you are after aligning the bottom of the box up from the bottom edge of front by |
In this example we have removed the drawer box from the cabinet and are working on our bench. It can also be done with drawer still in cabinet. |
Now install the screws to hold the drawer front to the box. Be careful to use 1" screws with 1/2" thru box and 1/2" into back of front that should be 3/4" THICK. Use too long and they will go thru the front. You don't want that! |
Now you want to check that the drawer front is installed with proper alignment to the cabinet and other drawers and door fronts. You can adjust by drilling new holes and/or relocating screws. |
Now the fun part! AND, do it last. After everything else is correct, drill thru the front of the drawer face and thru the drawer box for the handle screws/bolts. You will need longer than normal handle bolts because standard are for 3/4" doors and drawer fronts and you now have a 1/2" box and a 3/4" drawer front. Take an old handle bolt to any hardware store. If you are buying new handles they will usually come with at least two bolt lengths. or, ask for them! |
Email a picture and use DRAWER BOXES AND SLIDES in the Email subject line
Note: Please attach photos to your email. Do not Copy & Paste them into the body of the email. We will not see them.
WHEN TAKING PHOTOS OF YOUR ITEM FOR YOUR EMAIL INQUIRY:
- Have good lighting and move closer to the item. Folks tend to stand too far away.
- Mark the damages or special aspects with something like masking tape.
- Take an overall photo of the whole item. For example, from the right front and left rear and straight down on the seating.
- Take a close-up photo of any special areas. For example, the gouge to the wood.
- Take photos from various angles. For example, light reflection "plays tricks".
We do our best to respond to emails as quickly as possible but be aware that it may take one or two days before you receive a response to your inquiry. IF you don't hear from us, please follow up with a phone call or send a second inquiry.
There is a $30 packaging and handling fee PER ORDER, NOT PER ITEM, but items receive FREE SHIPPING to the 48 Contigous States. Long items, like bed posts have slightly higher packaging fees.
The entire website/s of www.TheWoodWorksInc.com and www.TheWWs.com and www.TheMovingClaims.com are copyrighted and should not be used by others in the trade in any form without explicit written permission.
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