In ThisArticle: The basics of installing base cabinets:Start in a corner, connect adjacent units by screwing the face framestogether, shim and screw to wall. Install filler strips as needed. | RelatedArticles: |
Skill Level: 3 (Moderate) | Time Taken: 3 Hours |
By Bruce W.Maki, Editor
Off To A Slow Start:
While this article follows cabinet installation in a new house, theinstallation process is the same for a kitchen remodel, once the old cabinetshave been removed.
 | The kitchen when I first saw it. Note the strip of floor tilesomitted next to the wall. This will require some filling andshimming. Another view. |  |
 | The kitchen designer made a nice computer-drawn plan, butas we know with home construction... Nothing Ever Goes AsPlanned. The pipes for the kitchen sink. |  |
The first step in a base cabinet installation is finding the highest point inthe cabinet layout area. The highest point is the best point to start,because from there all the other cabinets will need to be shimmed higher.
 | The corner where we will begin. The "Lazy Susan" corner unit that will be installedfirst. |  |
 | I had to use a few scraps of tile underlayment to build upthe level of the floor. I checked the levelness of the floor in both directions, addingshims as necessary. |  |
Installing The First Cabinet:
 | The Lazy Susan has a cover panel to conceal the side. Thestove will go next to this cupboard. I placed the components together to test their fit. |  |
 | The cover panel is clamped to the face frame of the Lazy Susanand holes are drilled for 2-1/2" deck screws. I had to mount 2x4 cleats on the wall to act as supportsfor the counter. |  |
Installing these cleats is a standard procedure with all of the Lazy Susancabinets I have installed.
 | The cover panel was fastened to the cleat with nails. I included a cleat to connect the Lazy Susan to the wall,to keep it from moving during construction. |  |
After the installation of the first Lazy Susan I turned myattention to the other end of the cabinet run. I installed some more scraps of tile underlayment to buildup the floor. |  |
 | The drawer base unit was set in place. There was a tapered gap along the right side, even thoughthe base unit was perfectly level. It turned out that the wallwas out of plumb. |  |
An example of a shim used to level a cabinet. |  |
Connecting Cabinets Together:
 | The sink base cabinet was set in place and the holes cut forthe water supply pipes (holes in bottom) and the drain (in backpanel) The two base cabinets were connected together with 2-1/2"cabinet mounting screws. |  |
This is an important concept in cabinet installation. Wheneverpossible, I first connect adjacent cabinets together at the faceframe. I clamp the cabinets together, adjust the face framesso they are perfectly flush, and drill holes for long screws,such as 2-1/2" deck screws.
 | The face frames connected tightly together. Next, the two units were fastened to the wall. The screwswere driven into studs. |  |
Installing The Second Lazy Susan:
 | The second Lazy Susan went the same as the first: cleats mountedto the wall, cover panel attached to the side, etc. This unit had another base cabinet attached to it's side. |  |
 | The kitchen so far. The open space between thecabinets along the right-hand wall is for a dishwasher. Dishwashersfit in a standard 24" cabinet width, so our space is exactly24" wide. |
 | A filler panel connected to a tall 84" high pantry cabinet. On one side of the refrigerator the plan showed a tall dividerpanel... but the panel landed right in front of an outlet. DidI mention that Nothing Ever Goes As Planned? |  |
I ended up moving the offendingoutlet a few inches to the right. Seethat article.
While the cabinet installation is far from complete, the basecabinets are done. Follow along as I installthe counter tops.
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